Climbing the Dragon’s Backbone: My Visit to Lóngshèng Rice Terraces

The village of Ping'An.

The village of Ping’An.

High up in the hills of Lóngshèng in Guăngxī Province of China, among mists and clouds sits a small village of Ping’An. At an altitude of about 1,000m (over 3,000ft) it is safely nestled in between steep slopes. Actually, calling it a village might be going too far – it’s a hamlet composed of large family houses with few inhabitants. Most of the people living here belong to the Zhuàng minority. The Zhuàng people, or 壮族, constitute only 1 of 56 recognised national minorities of China, but at the same time are the largest minority of the country.

Lóngshèng Hills.

Lóngshèng Hills.

I set off early in the morning from the city of Guìlín (桂林), the capital of Guăngxī Province. It’s warm yet cloudy day in the middle of June. As the air is quite muggy it’s really easy to break sweat. I take a slightly worse-for-wear rickety long-distance coach to Lóngshèng county up north. The distance is just under 90kms and it takes me about 2 hours to reach my destination. Once in Lóngshèng town I look for a minivan with which to continue to towards my destination. Sadly, with my basic Mandarin skills I manage to learn that a van has just left in that direction and I might need to wait even an hour or more until a sufficient number of people gathers up to fill the next van. There doesn’t seem to be any timetable here – in rural areas vans servicing local destinations depart on demand, i.e. once there’s large enough a number of paying passengers. Because Lóngshèng town hasn’t really got much to offer, I resolve not to wait. With my barely conversational Mandarin – which keeps bringing appreciative smiles to many Chinese faces – I ask around for alternative means of transport. Finally, one of the drivers on a break points my in the right direction and I catch a van that goes more less where I want. And so, after another half hour’s ride through the Chinese countryside and a few villages, where people pack baskets and chickens into the van, I end up at the foot of the hills it is my plan to reach. However, there’s a little problem I’m facing now: I am supposed to have ended up my journey near the summit! Anxious not to lose any precious time I begin a brisk walk uphill, all the while trying to ignore the humidity. After a quarter of an hour, however, my luck turns around and I spot a teenager on a scooter driving down the road I’m climbing. I mange to intercept him and after driving a hard bargain – as you do in China – I get him to take my up the winding road to the entrance of the village of Ping’An, my final destination.

Entrance to Ping'An village.

Entrance to Ping’An village.

As we near the top, mists begin appearing around – it’s the clouds with which the summit is shrouded. After a relatively short drive we reach Ping’An and I pay my driver who quickly makes his exit. Everything’s very quiet here and it seems you could hear a pin drop. At the entrance to the village there are hardly any people, just a few bored but friendly local Zhuàng villagers manning a little parade of arts and crafts souvenir stalls.

Souvenir stall at the entrance to Ping'An.

Souvenir stall at the entrance to Ping’An.

There are all sorts of fabrics, pots, wooden sculptures and trinkets on sale here. Some less some more attractive, but mostly pleasing to the eye. As I am in the middle of backpacking across the country and really try to travel light, I have just a short browse and am again on my way. In general, I try to steer clear of souvenir shops, for fear I eventually succumb and embark on a shopping spree. Although my main backpack, which is waiting for me back in Guìlín, has still lots of room inside, what I really don’t need is to have to lug a bag that’s 8 months pregnant with souvenirs around the whole country.

Climbing up the steps to Ping'An.

Climbing up the steps to Ping’An.

Although the stalls mark Ping’An’s official entrance, the actual settlement is some 5-10 minutes climb away. I know that it is only the beginning of the real hike that awaits me, so I decide on a little rest before I start my ascent. I set off again and after a short while I turn a corner behind which Ping’An looms into view. The picture is simply stunning: I’m facing beautiful big wooden family houses perched on steep slopes that were transformed into rice terraces centuries ago. At times it seems that some of the houses sit precariously one on top of  the other. I can also see various small winding paths leading uphill onto the famous Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces.

Ping'An village.

Ping’An village.

Ping'An Village.

Ping’An Village.

I walk on and enter the village proper. There are a few people around, mostly women doing the laundry, who greet my with smiles. I slowly wend my way in between buildings, paying attention to all their architectural details. It’s only my 2nd week in China and I’m still not used to the way houses are built here. Everything’s new, every-thing’s different! The houses are large, all made of timber, each 3 or 4 floors high with windows running along the whole width and length of the buildings. Some have nice balconies too. A few are adorned with traditional red Chinese lanterns.

At last! The rice terraces.

At last! The rice terraces.

The village is quite small so I leave it soon, following paths that lead upwards. Whenever a path splits I choose one that seems to lead in the right direction – towards the highest hill. Even though there’s no sun, the heat and humidity of the season slows down my ascent.

China Longsheng Rice Terraces Longji Ping'An The Indie Traveller

As I climb the views around me become more and more amazing. I can see passing clouds between me and hills around me, rice terraces are everywhere and nestled in between them at my feet is Ping’An. Backpacking and independent travelling are really worth it if the views you get at the end of the day are such as these!

Ping'An village surrounded by the rice terraces of Longsheng.

Ping’An village surrounded by the rice terraces of Lóngshèng.

China Longsheng Rice Terraces Longji Indie Traveller Climbing

The rice terraces of Lóngshèng have two peaks that can serve as fantastic viewpoints. The first once is called Nine Dragons and Five Tigers while the second Seven Stars with Moon. Truly poetic Chinese names! Anyhow, I have no time to waste so I continue my sweaty hike.

Nearing Seven Stars with Moon viewpoint.

Nearing Seven Stars with Moon viewpoint.

Once I reach the Seven Stars with Moon viewpoint I take a rest before heading for Nine Dragons and Five Tigers. The surrounding panorama is just magnificent. The clouds and mists add mystery to the landscape.

The stunning panorama of the rice terraces.

The stunning panorama of the rice terraces.

I reach Nine Dragons and Five Tigers relatively quickly. The path from the other viewpoint led, luckily, across a fairly level ground. It gave me some well-deserved rest from all the tiresome climbing.

I stay for a while at the top enjoying the scenery around me – a just reward for my efforts. And there is a lot to enjoy indeed. Ping’An village just below looks absolutely stunning when set against the background of the Dragon’s Backbone rice terraces. I feel as if was transported to some fairy tale land!

But why actually the terraces are called the Dragon’s Backbone? Well, apparently because the clusters of the terraces resemble the scales of a dragon’s hide, while the summit resembles a long and twisting spine of a dragon. The Chinese imagination is truly remarkable!

Traditionally dressed long-haired Zhuàng woman near Ping'An.

Traditionally dressed long-haired Zhuàng woman near Ping’An.

A time passes by and I decide to descend to the village from where I am to start my journey back to Guìlín city. On the way down I bump into a couple of Zhuàng women. They are carrying some eggs and other groceries as well as baskets with some textiles for sale they claim to have made themselves (although I have my doubts about that). Both women sport traditionally long hair tied around their heads in big bundles. They wear skirts and pink blouses – this is all part of the traditional costume of Zhuàng women. This encounter nicely rounded off my trip to Lóngshèng.

Descending...

Descending…

 

INTERESTING BITS ABOUT THE SITE:

– Travel China Guide

Lóngshèng Wiki

Destination
1 Hong Kong, Hong Kong
2 Guangzhou, China
3 Guilin, China
4 Yangshuo, China
5 Longsheng, China
6 Guilin, China

The Old City of Shanghai: My Walk through Chinese History into the Garden of Happiness

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller

The Old City in Shanghai, with Pudong’s skyscrapers and the Oriental Pearl Tower looming into view far behind.

In July 2008, after a month of backpacking through various towns, cities, and countryside of China, after hiking, climbing mountains, cycling and more, I reached the great city of Shanghai (上海). All through my journey the travellers I met had been wondering why I planned to stay 4-5 days in this city. “It’s just a big Chinese city” they said, “one like so many others, all alike.” But a day of explorations convinced me I was right to book 4 nights because Shanghai turned out to be just great! And one of the places I visited that reaffirmed this was the Shànghăi Gùchéng (上海古城), or the Old City of Shanghai.

China Shanghai Traffic Indie Traveller

Scooter and motorcycle traffic in Shanghai.

My hostel was located near the Bund, the historical waterfront area on the Huángpǔ River in central Shanghai. I woke up reasonably early (for me) and after breakfast headed south on foot. The streets of Shanghai were packed with scooters zooming past here and there. Some of those little machines carried some crazy loads! It can be quite a sight sometimes. Anyhow, my hostel lay just in the middle between Nanjing Road East station and the Old City, which is a distance of a bit more than 1km. That meant that on foot I reached my destination in no time.

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

The pedestrianised streets of Shanghai’s Old City.

The Old City is nothing like I imagined – I hadn’t looked up any pictures of the place before going there. So, I was expecting to find a cluster of some old Chinese village houses surrounded with modern buildings. I was so wrong! Once I reached Renmin Lu (Renmin Road), which runs along where the northern city wall used to be, I saw traditionally looking houses as expected, yet those were a few stories high! What I saw used to be no village; the Old City’s architecture showed me that indeed it must have been a great and rich city for a very long time. Excited by what I saw I quickly crossed Renmin Road and delved into the streets of the area ahead.

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

The completely revamped streets of the Old City.

Entering the Old City is a bit like entering a different world. One moment you’re in a big modern Western city, and next you’re getting lost navigating through narrow alleyways in some surreal fairy-tale like Asian town. The streets are packed with people who browse through various goods on sale here. There are plenty of small restaurants here, little souvenir shops, clothes shops, etc; capitalist enterprise thriving in a communist country!

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

Shanghai’s Old City.

Although all the buildings here are quite old, they have been completely revamped. Nothing’s falling apart! The streets area reasonably clean, here and there some people are resting in the shade, some are going about their daily routine and others are enjoying their day sipping some cold drink. The Old City is a very lively area, perfect for a casual walk. The pleasant hustle and bustle of the pedestrianised streets and the traditional Chinese architecture visible all around makes it easy to forget that you’re in Shanghai, the 8th largest city in the world. Instead, it’s easier to imagine you’re in some busy town somewhere in China. The only telltale signs of modernity are the digital cameras and mobile phones that you see people use everywhere around you.

Tourists in Chénghuáng Miào near the entrance to the Yù Yuán Garden.

After I’d had a little look at various shops in the area and a nice walk along the various lanes of the Old City, I headed for one of it’s attractions: the Yù Yuán (豫园), the Garden of Happiness. The garden is located in the busiest area of the Old City called Chénghuáng Miào (上海城隍庙) that takes its name after a nearby temple. As expected, the place was packed with tourists, mostly Chinese, taking snaps of one another.

China Shanghai Old City Chénghuáng Miào Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists

Chénghuáng Miào.

Chénghuáng Miào is a really pretty area with traditional buildings situated around a nice pool teaming with goldfish. It does get quite crowded though.

Goldfish in Chénghuáng Miào.

In Chinese culture the fish represents wealth and prosperity. It is because the Chinese word yú (魚), which stands for fish, when pronounced with a different tone makes yù (裕) which stands for plentiful.

Chénghuáng Miào.

Once I took my photographs, enjoyed a little stroll around the pretty pool, fed some fish, and smiled back at some Chinese tourists who were ever so excited to see a real Westerner in real life, I went to the entrance of the Yù Yuán.

Inside the Yù Yuán Garden.

The Yù Yuán Garden was created in the sixteenth century by an Imperial Court official and has been well looked after since. Thus, nowadays it can easily be the highlight of anyone’s visit to Shanghai. It’s a really beautiful tranquil place, much quieter and relaxed than the area just outside the garden walls.

Rockeries – a common design feature of Yù Yuán.

Rockeries constitute a common feature of Yù Yuán’s design. So do numerous walkways, classical Chinese pavilions, well tended trees, bushes and other vegetation as well as pools filled with some more goldfish.

Traditional interior.

Some of the buildings in the garden are open and everybody can have a little look at what traditional Chinese interior decoration is like.

Traditional style window.

The interiors are rich in ornaments, with beautiful traditional Chinese style windows that overlook the beautiful garden.

Ornamental wall of the Yù Yuán.

Even the garden walls are quite a sight. They draw the visitor’s attention with dragons perched right on top whose undulating tails run all along the wall.

A walkway inside the Yù Yuán.

Walkways walkways walkways… cutting across pools filled with goldfish. Everything’s very well arranged and picturesque. We could just as well be back in the sixteenth century. Nothing around reveals that it’s indeed the twenty first.

Rockeries and another walkway of the Yù Yuán. And yet some more goldfish!

The Yù Yuán Garden.

Traditional Chinese style curved roof in the Yù Yuán Garden.

This here is only one of many fantastic examples of the traditional Chinese style up-turned curved roof. Curved not only to provide a better protection against rain but supposedly also against evil spirits. Plus there’s the lovely aesthetic factor.

The Yù Yuán Garden.

Shíshī, or the Imperial Guardian Lion in the Yù Yuán Garden.

When leaving the Yù Yuán you will come across the moss-covered shíshī (石獅), or the Imperial Guardian Lion. They usually go in pairs, one male and one female. In the photo above you can see the male shíshī with his right paw fixed upon the world. The Chinese Guardian Lions started their career in the Chinese culture about 2,000 years ago when they began to be used as both decorative and protective features at entrances to tombs, palaces, temples, or homes of wealthy officials. Despite this glorious origin, nowadays they also adorn the fronts of shops, restaurants and even supermarkets, and are a common sight in any Chinatown you visit.

Souvenir stall in Chénghuáng Miào.

Once out I found myself again in Chénghuáng Miào, the busy commercial district of the Old City of Shanghai. As it was the time for me to leave the Old City, I quickly went around some of the shops in the area in search of some cheap souvenirs. The choice is huge! From fridge magnets to caps, helmets and t-shirts.

Terracotta warriors replicas at a souvenir stall in Chénghuáng Miào.

Some might be interested in small scale replicas of the famous terracotta warriors of Xi’an or…

Souvenir stall in Chénghuáng Miào.

… in some traditional Chinese masks carved out of wood.

Souvenir stalls in Chénghuáng Miào.

A thing to remember! This is China, and it’s a very touristy area. So haggle haggle haggle! True, when you convert the renminbi price into pounds, dollars, euros, or whatever currency you use back home, the prices are not that high. But if you’re backpacking across the continent on a budget, every little penny counts sometimes. So, if you’re able to bring the price down by 50%, why not try doing so and saving some cash for a bigger lunch later?

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller

The Old City in Shanghai, with Pudong's skyscrapers looming into view far behind.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Traffic Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Traffic Indie Traveller

Scooter and motorcycle traffic in Shanghai.

China Shanghai Traffic Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

The pedestrianised streets of Shanghai's Old City.

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City The Indie Traveller

The crowded streets of the Old City.

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City The Indie Traveller

Shanghai's Old City.

China Shanghai Old City Indie Traveller

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller Tourists

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller Tourists

Tourists near the entrance to the Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie Traveller Tourists

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists

The vicinity of the Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller  Fish

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Fish

Fish

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Fish

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists (2)

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists (2)

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists (2)

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden

The Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden House

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden House

House.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden House Inside

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden House Inside

House inside.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden House Window

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden House Window

Window.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 1

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 1

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 1

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 2

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 2

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 2

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 3

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 3

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 3

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 4

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 4

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 4

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 5

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 5

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 5

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 6

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 6

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 6

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 7

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 7

Yuyuan Garden.

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden 7

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 01

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 01

Souvenirs.

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 01

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 02

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 02

Souvenirs.

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 02

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs Chénghuáng Miào

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs Chénghuáng Miào

Souvenir stalls in Chénghuáng Miào.

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 03

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 04

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 04

Souvenirs.

China Shanghai Old City Souvenirs 04

China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden Indie TravellerChina Shanghai Traffic Indie TravellerChina Shanghai Old City Indie TravellerChina Shanghai Old City Indie TravellerChina Shanghai Old City Indie TravellerTourists near the entrance to the Yuyuan Garden.China Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller TouristsFishChina Shanghai Old City Yuyuan Garden The Indie Traveller Tourists (2)The Yuyuan Garden.House.House inside.Window.Yuyuan Garden.Yuyuan Garden.Yuyuan Garden.Yuyuan Garden.Yuyuan Garden.Yuyuan Garden.Yuyuan Garden.Souvenirs.Souvenirs.Souvenir stalls in Chénghuáng Miào.Souvenirs.